Saddles, Stitches and Soul

Saddler Tanis Brain on the Art and Resurgence of Leatherwork

In a world dominated by fast fashion and fleeting trends, there’s a quiet revolution in the appreciation of handcrafted goods—a shift toward the timeless quality and authenticity of small-scale, locally crafted items. And we certainly celebrate that at Rowdy!

Embodying this resurgence is Tanis Brain, a Bath-based saddler and artisan whose dedication to traditional leatherwork encapsulates the value of durability and heritage. When our customers need a repair, she’s our go-to girl for lovingly hand-restoring Rowdy bags from her studio.

From crafting equestrian items and small accessories to undertaking intricate leather restoration, here, Tanis unpicks her craft. Read on to discover why leather is her love language and how her job calls for the precision of a surgeon and the finesse of a magician.

Bridling Ambition

Tanis was drawn to saddlery through growing up with horses, but it wasn’t until she began creating her own pieces that she truly felt the pull of leatherwork. “I’ve had horses all my life and knew I wanted to work with them in some way,” she reflects. That early passion led her to Capel Manor in London, a renowned centre for learning the craft, where she pursued a rigorous education in the art of saddlery.

Crafting Perfection, One Stitch at a Time

Creating each piece from scratch requires a painstaking mix of skill, intuition, and respect for materials. Tanis explains her process with a passion that reveals a deep connection to her craft. “If I’m making a bridle, it will be from Sedgewick’s Bridle veg tan leather. To start, you need to select the best areas of the hide to cut your straps from. This is a combination of finding the strongest part of the hide, essential for safety for some equestrian items, but also ensuring no blemishes will affect the aesthetic.”

A true labour of love, Tanis then takes the raw material through a series of precise steps: edge beveling, staining, adding decorative creases, and finally, stitching by hand with linen thread, often at ten stitches per inch. “Each step is critical,” she says. “It’s about enhancing the leather’s beauty and ensuring the piece is safe, functional, and will last a lifetime.”

Tradition vs Modernity

Saddlery has centuries of tradition and techniques. Do these hinder Tanis from embracing innovation? No. “I was always told the old tools were best, and generally they are, but I do get quite excited about new tools entering the market and seeing how new innovations improve my work is fantastic,” she says. For Tanis, the balance between honouring ancient techniques and adapting to modern needs is essential. Linen thread, which has been used for centuries, remains her go-to because of its strength and resilience.

This blend of tradition and modernity has become a defining feature of Tanis’s work, especially in a world that increasingly values fast, mass-produced goods. As a small-scale artisan, she is keenly aware of the advantages of being part of the UK’s micro-industry movement.

“Being an independent maker means my clients work directly with me, from the initial conversation to the final piece,” she says. “There’s a personal touch that larger companies simply can’t offer.” Tanis’ clients aren’t just buying a product; they’re engaging in a story, a process that reflects the individuality and quality that only a skilled artisan can provide.

Saddle Up for Slow Fashion

At a time when sustainability is at the forefront of consumers’ minds, Tanis believes that handcrafted leather goods have an important role to play. “Leather is a natural material that can last generations with the right care. It’s the ultimate slow fashion,” she explains.

Tanis is mindful of where her materials come from, preferring to source her leather locally within the UK, though this commitment comes with challenges. “The cost of high-quality, locally sourced leather can be high, and unfortunately, the number of British tanneries is dwindling.” Still, she believes that supporting local suppliers and producing durable goods is worth it. “Compared to synthetic materials, which often contain plastic, leather is a more sustainable choice. And when it’s crafted by hand, it gains a character and resilience that mass-produced items lack.”

The Repairing Revolution

This ethos of longevity is also reflected in her approach to repair work. She’s as much a restorer as she is a creator, breathing new life into worn-down leather goods (including our leather bags from Rowdy!) that, if they could talk, would probably have some great stories to tell. “Restoring leather goods has this wonderful element of respect for the past,” she says. “It’s rewarding to give an item a new purpose without stripping away its history.”

“Ideally, I try to make repairs look as original as possible, but sometimes you have to go in a slightly different direction to fix the damage.” The result is a harmonious blend of old and new, a fresh chapter in each item’s story.

The renewed interest in traditional crafts has brought positive changes for artisans like Tanis. “I think consumers want locally made, quality items that have a story,” she says. This trend isn’t just about nostalgia; it’s about a deeper appreciation for quality and individuality. “Leatherwork as a craft has existed for a very long time. The Worshipful Company of Saddlers, one of London’s oldest livery companies, dates back to 1160 AD. People can trust in that tradition.” This history brings with it a sense of responsibility, both for Tanis and for her customers, who are increasingly conscious of where their products come from and the skill behind them.

Of course, shows like The Repair Shop have also played a role in increasing public appreciation for handcrafted and repaired items. “The show highlights the value in fixing and restoring items that just need a little care,” she says. “It’s wonderful because people may not have realized the range of skills involved in leather repair, and it’s given them a glimpse into what’s possible.”

Crafting the Future

Looking forward, Tanis hopes to see the micro-industry movement continue to grow in the UK. She envisions a future where small-scale artisans and traditional crafts play an integral role in a more mindful approach to fashion and accessories. In a world that often prioritises the instant over the enduring, Tanis’s work is a reminder that the quality of a product—its authenticity, its story and its longevity—truly matters. “There’s a deep satisfaction in knowing that I’ve made something people want, something that will serve them well. That’s what keeps me going.”

For those who believe in the power of handcrafted goods, Tanis’s work is more than a product—it’s a testament to the enduring beauty of tradition and the quiet revolution of slow fashion. “I create things I would love to use myself,” she enthuses. “Each piece represents the best of what I can do, and that’s a connection I’m proud to share.”

Connect with Saddler Tanis Brain at tpjbleather.co.uk and Instagram @tpjbleather.